The prize - Big Sur

The goal of the trip was really to get to Big Sur so I could experience the land that inspired so many of my favourite writers.

We left SLO pretty early for breakfast in Morro Bay. Even though it was early on a Sunday, Dorn’s Original Breakers Cafe was hopping. It was easy to see why with an amazing view of Morro Rock and Morro bay harbour, patio and great service and food. Best eggs benedict of the trip (and I do know my eggs bene).

Back on route 1, we were treated to the gorgeous views we’d missed being inland on the 101 for a couple days. The drive to Big Sur took us to Harmony, a tiny, privately owned town just off the highway. It was in the guidebook but there really was nothing to see.

Next stop was Hearst Castle. This thing is insane.

We thought we could just drive up and see the outside, but no way. It’s a full on tourist event. Don’t know what I’m talking about - well, I really don’t think I can explain so check out the link. 130-room hilltop castle built by William Randolph Hearst. Now a state park, you need to pay about $25 to get a bus tour up the hill to the castle and a guided tour of certain sections of the castle (you could probably spend days doing the whole thing). We checked out the free displays and then crossed the highway to enjoy William R Hearst Memorial State Park with a sandy beach and sheltered cove. So hot we were sweating in just bikinis but it was nice to stop midday since we had been driving so much.

Big Sur was next. We got there just in time for lunch. We were so hungry that we drove past both the Henry Miller Library and the Coast Gallery (mistake as they were closed when we tried to go back). We tried lunch at Deetjen’s first, but they were closed for lunch, which worked out just fine as next was Nepenthe. I can’t even describe Nepenthe. It’s like a dining complex made by the gods. The view from the restaurant is unsurpassed. I had the house special - the ambrosia burger. Best burger ever with fresh coleslaw. Melt in your mouth ground sirloin.

Weirdest thing - we had told everyone we’d be out of cell reception for a few days but nope. We had it all through Big Sur - even in the campground (which we should have guessed that since it had wifi was well).

After lunch, we went to check out our campsite for the next two nights at the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. It was gorgeous. The campground has a lodge so there is a restaurant (see day eight), store, laundry, and more.

We squeezed our bloated bellies into our bikinis and went down to the river to join our fellow campers in the warm water. It was amazing.

We’d decided to try and find another tent, as the one we had was tiny. Didn’t have to go far as they had one at the campground store - along with pretty much anything else we may have needed.

We thought we’d drive into Carmel for dinner, but once we realized it was a bit further away than we had realized, and after we encountered a drunken idiot behind us on the highway, we turned back. Dinner was at the Big Sur Roadhouse, where we had a great fresh meal (I had the special tacos with salmon and mango). Lots of locals - a good sign for a restaurant. Really nice staff.

We were pretty beat from the sun, so we turned in early thinking we’d enjoy the park more the next day.

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